Fezzan is the home to two of the world’s greatest sand seas, the Murzuq and the Ubari. Both are the size of Switzerland and are places of enchanting and breathtaking natural beauty. The Murzuq consists of wave upon wave of finely sculpted dunes, some as high as 300 metres, rising from the Barjuj plateau. In the morning sunlight they shimmer pale yellow above the valley of white sand. As the day wears on, each sharply angled dune face gradually changes its hue, until just before sunset, their colours vary from deep gold to burnt orange.

In the Wadi Barjuj, with the Murzuq dunes on the horizon, lush green fields of wheat and alfalfa are an impressive contrast. This is one of the major farming projects in Libya irrigated from underground water sources. It is an unforgettable and almost unbelievable sight in the middle of an arid desert.

Equally as magnificent, but softer to the eye are the rolling Ubari dunes. Between the ochre coloured sand dunes is an unexpected series of natural, deepest blue salty lakes: Mavo, Gebraoun and Umm Al Maa that are as salty as the Dead Sea. Date palms and Tamarisk trees surround them and the visual effect is stunning.

Contemplating the beauty

The Jebel Acacus

The Jebel Acacus is not only one of the most beautiful areas of Libya, it is spellbinding. Here are jagged dark mountains with reddish sand dunes on their cliffs where the wind blown sand has settled. Many stratified formations of rock rise high from the sandstone valley floor forming weird, massive natural sculptures such as Athad, a 20 metre high finger rock, a startling and significant sight, and well formed arches including Afozedzhar which is an amazing 150 metres high.

In this mountain range are great treasures of Libya’s past. Numerous shady wadis covering hundreds of kilometres, wind their way through this magnificent rock scenery protecting some of the world’s best examples of rock painting and carving -- now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site -- dating back 12,000 years. Of most importance for its paintings is Wadi Tashwinat with scenes depicting hunting, fighting, festivities, wild and domesticated animals and also daily life over the centuries.

In contrast, the sandy Murzuq dunes lead to “The Ocean of Stone”, a barren, stark desert of black rock. In this desert is the unique Wadi Methkandoush, where hidden in rocky cliffs is one of the richest concentrations of rock carving in the world mostly of wild animals. These are just two examples of the many wadis containing superb rock art.

Several days could be spent exploring this magnificent wilderness and it would not suffice.

Waiting for  sunset

The old towns of the Sahara & ancient Rock Art

Wherever, you tread, you find remnants of the people who lived here and contributed not only to society, but also to this incredible rock art.

Close to the small town of Germa are the ruins of Garama. The Garamantians were an indigenous people and enormously significant to Libya’s heritage. They lived here from about 900 BC for 600 years and had outposts of the Empire from Ghat to Ghadamis to Tripoli. They were a very successful people and contributed to the Saharan rock art in wadi Tashwenit. Nearby is the Garamantian necropolis of the Royal family over several dynasties. There is a small, but excellent museum.

Most of what remains of the old Tuareg town of Ghat at the southern end of the Acacus is from the 12th century. The old mud brick medina is fascinating and charming. A web of narrow lanes weaves between the whitewashed buildings with tiny palm or Cyprus trunk doors. Beautiful Tuareg silver jewellery and leather work is made here.

Rock Art